Chang Tribe

Introduction

The Chang are a Naga tribe living principally in Tuensang district in the eastern Naga hills. They are known for the Naknyulüm festival in July, which marks the planting of the rice crop, and for a long warrior tradition.

History & Origins

Chang oral history traces the tribe's origins to a common ancestor named Changsen, from whom the tribe takes its name. The community is one of the older recognised Naga tribes.

District & Location

Tuensang district is one of the larger districts in eastern Nagaland. The district town of Tuensang is around seven hours' drive from Kohima.

Important Villages

Tuensang, Noksen and Hakushang are among the principal Chang villages.

Traditional Attire

Chang men wear a black kilt with a striking warrior shawl decorated with cowrie shells. Women wear wraparound skirts with bold bands and bead necklaces.

Morung & Architecture

Chang villages are built on hilltops with houses of timber and bamboo. The morung was once the centre of village life.

Culture & Lifestyle

Chang society is organised around clans and led by village councils. Jhum cultivation is the principal form of agriculture.

Festivals & Celebrations

Naknyulüm, celebrated in July, is the most important Chang festival. It marks the planting of the rice crop and is a celebration of community and shared labour.

Food & Cuisine

Chang cuisine features smoked pork, bamboo shoot, foraged greens and a wide range of chillies.

Arts, Music & Dance

Chang folk songs are sung in harmony, and traditional dances are performed in full ceremonial dress at festivals.

Role During Hornbill Festival

The Chang morung at Kisama features displays of traditional crafts and regular dance performances.

Travel Information

The Chang homeland in Tuensang district is reached most easily by road from Kohima or Dimapur. Most travellers fly into Dimapur (DMU), the only commercial airport in Nagaland, and continue by shared sumo or private vehicle. The drive from Dimapur to Kohima takes around two and a half to three hours; onward travel to the Chang districts varies from a couple of hours to a full day depending on the village.

Permits are essential. Indian travellers need an Inner Line Permit (ILP), which can be issued online or at entry points in Dimapur and Kohima. Foreign travellers need a Protected Area Permit (PAP) and must register at the Foreigners' Registration Office on arrival. We handle both as part of any booking.

October to April is the most comfortable window to visit. December is festival season — roads are busier, stays book out months in advance, and temperatures in the hills drop sharply at night. Carry layers, sturdy shoes for village walks, and a power bank; electricity in remote villages can be intermittent.

Accommodation Options

Stays in Chang country range from simple village homestays run by local families to mid-range guesthouses in the district headquarters. Kohima itself offers a wider choice — from deluxe properties like The Heritage and Razhü Pru to comfortable standard hotels closer to Kisama.

For a more immersive experience, we recommend at least one night in a traditional homestay. You'll share meals cooked over a wood fire, hear stories from elders, and wake to the sounds of a working Naga village. Most homestays are basic but spotlessly clean, with shared bathrooms and warm bedding.

During the Hornbill Festival (1–10 December), rooms in and around Kohima fill up by September. Booking early matters more than booking expensive — we'll suggest the right fit based on your dates, budget and how close to Kisama you want to be.

Gallery

Photographs from Tuensang and surrounding Chang villages.